Xinomavro is a variety common to northern Greece and is one of the few Greek grapes not to ripen in every vintage. Xinomavro means "tart black" ; in wines made from old Xinomavro vines that tartness is pronounced and requires reasonably careful food pairing. Most common comparisons one hears proffered are Pinot Noir (mostly, one feels, for the moderate colour intensity of Xinomavros' wines) and Nebbiolo for its structure. This red grape produces many of Greece's most exciting wines.